Last Sunday October 4th, we woke up to the most sunny and beautiful forecast. From where we live east of the Puget Sound all the way to the Pacific coast. Knowing that 70 degrees and sunshine is not typical October weather, we loaded into my Rav4 and made the 2 hour and 40 minute drive to the coastal city of Long Beach to…
The waves were smaller and the ocean was chilly since it was the Washington coast on a calm, clear day. But 70 degrees and sun + our wet suits actually made the Pacific Ocean fairly toasty once my feet went numb (HA). I get so much anxiety when I do new activities like this, or even when it’s not a new activity but I’m doing it in a new location (skiing in Alaska for the first time, etc.). But I have a set of words that always calm me right down, – “I know it’s scary, but do it anyway.”
I looked at the ocean, I felt the panic rising in my chest, and then I whispered those words to myself. Sure it’s scary. I can’t see the bottom and there could be crabs, or jellies, or sharks lurking but life is short. Do it anyway.
So I did.
It was a fantastic day. We surfed for 5+ hours with a few breaks to hydrate and eat in between surfing sessions.
It was SO much fun. From the very first wave I attempted to ride and was plowed over somersaulting in the salty water, I came up for air laughing. Despite being terrible for 4 hours, I enjoyed every second. FINALLY, in the last hour I was able to stand up and ride two waves to completion. Again, small waves. But I still maintain I surfed!
It was a fantastic day.
I’ll keep this post short and sweet since I am suffering from a wedding hangover and my delivery sushi is on its way (& I wonder why I weigh more now than in college – lol). But if I’m being honest I rather be on the beach this weekend and next weekend and EVERY weekend. No matter how many mountains I climb and cities I explore, my hair/skin/heart love the ocean and the sand.
The cure for anything is salt water – sweat, tears, or the sea.
– Isak Dinesen